The Princess Cut engagement ring is experiencing a significant resurgence in popularity, cementing its status as the second most sought-after diamond shape globally, right behind the classic round brilliant. As of late 2025, this geometric, square-shaped diamond is no longer just a classic choice; it's a statement piece, blending modern clean lines with the unparalleled fire of a brilliant cut. Its unique ability to appear larger than a round diamond of the same carat weight, coupled with its economical cutting process, makes it an exceptionally brilliant and high-value option for couples planning their engagement.

The current landscape of fine jewelry sees the Princess Cut being embraced in fresh, contemporary settings, moving beyond the traditional solitaire to incorporate bold designs like thick bands, bezel settings, and the ever-popular hidden halo. This article dives deep into the history, the latest 2025 trends, and the ultimate buyer’s guide—the seven essential secrets—you need to know to select a flawless and secure Princess Cut diamond engagement ring.

The Royal History and Enduring Appeal of the Princess Cut

The history of the Princess Cut is a fascinating tale of innovation in the diamond cutting world. The initial concept for a square brilliant cut was developed in 1961 by a diamond cutter from England named Arpad Nagy, who first coined the name "Princess Cut."

However, the modern, widely recognized Princess Cut diamond, known for its inverted pyramid shape and exceptional fire, was officially perfected and introduced in 1979 by Israel Itzkowitz. Other sources trace its evolution back to 1971 with a patented cut by Basil Watermeyer.

This square cut was explicitly designed to maximize the rough diamond’s yield, often retaining up to 90% of the original stone, compared to only 40–50% for a round brilliant cut. This efficiency is a core reason why the Princess Cut is typically more economical, often costing up to 30% less than a comparable round diamond.

Its enduring appeal lies in its dual nature: it offers the spectacular fire and scintillation of a round brilliant diamond but in a distinct, geometric, square shape, appealing to the modern bride who seeks both tradition and individuality.

The 2025 Comeback: New Trends in Princess Cut Engagement Rings

While shapes like the oval and marquise have dominated recent years, the Princess Cut is making a strong comeback in 2025, with many designers and experts calling it the "most underrated" ring. Its versatility allows it to adapt perfectly to several key emerging jewelry trends.

1. The Rise of the Secure V-Prong Setting

One of the most critical aspects of the Princess Cut is its four pointed corners. While they contribute to the diamond’s unique look, these corners can be prone to chipping if not properly protected.

The V-Prong setting has become the gold standard for Princess Cut diamonds. This setting secures the vulnerable corners with a V-shaped groove of metal, offering maximum protection while still allowing ample light to enter the stone for optimal brilliance. The classic prong setting remains popular, but the V-Prong is a crucial upgrade for durability.

2. Modern Minimalism with Bezel and Thick Bands

Current trends favor bolder, more substantial designs. Thick bands are a major trend in 2025, providing a striking, contemporary look that grounds the Princess Cut’s sharp geometry.

The Bezel setting is also gaining traction, particularly for the Princess Cut. A full bezel completely encircles the diamond in a rim of metal, offering the highest level of protection for the corners and creating a sleek, minimalist aesthetic that is perfect for a modern or active lifestyle.

3. The Secret Sparkle of the Hidden Halo

The hidden halo is one of the most exciting innovations for the Princess Cut. Instead of a traditional halo that frames the diamond from the top, the hidden halo is a small ring of pavé diamonds set just below the main stone’s girdle.

This design adds a secret, subtle layer of sparkle that is only visible from the side, enhancing the main diamond’s perceived size and brilliance without overwhelming the clean lines of the square cut. It’s an ideal way to add a vintage touch to a modern shape.

The Ultimate Buyer's Guide: 7 Secrets to Choosing a Flawless Princess Diamond

Selecting the perfect Princess Cut requires specific knowledge about the 4 Cs (Carat, Cut, Color, Clarity) and its unique proportions. Use these seven secrets to ensure you get the maximum value and sparkle from your investment, whether you choose a natural or a lab grown diamond.

Secret 1: Prioritize the V-Prong Setting

As mentioned, this is non-negotiable for protection. Ensure the prongs are sturdy and fully cover the diamond’s pointed corners to prevent chipping, a known risk for this shape.

Secret 2: Look for the Ideal Depth-to-Table Ratio

The cut quality is paramount for brilliance. For a Princess Cut, the ideal proportions are slightly different than a round diamond. Aim for a Depth Percentage between 68% and 75% and a Table Percentage between 66% and 74%. These ranges ensure the diamond reflects light optimally, giving it that exceptional fire.

Secret 3: You Can Save on Clarity (Go Eye-Clean)

The Princess Cut's brilliant faceting pattern is excellent at masking minor inclusions. This means you can often drop down to a slightly lower Clarity Grade like SI1 (Slightly Included) or even VS2 (Very Slightly Included) and still have a diamond that is "eye-clean" (meaning no inclusions are visible to the naked eye). This offers significant cost savings without sacrificing beauty.

Secret 4: Be Mindful of Color Grade

Unlike the round brilliant, the Princess Cut's sharp corners and larger table can sometimes trap and show more color, especially in the corners. For the best appearance, aim for a Color Grade of H or better (G, F, E, D). If you are setting the diamond in yellow gold or rose gold, you can safely drop to an I or J color, as the metal color will mask the slight yellow tint.

Secret 5: Focus on Carat Weight for Size Perception

A Princess Cut diamond often looks larger than a round brilliant cut of the same carat weight. This is because its diagonal measurement (corner-to-corner) is greater, and its square shape utilizes more of the diamond's overall surface area. You can often get the visual impact of a larger stone for a lower price.

Secret 6: Consider Platinum or White Gold for a Colorless Look

For a truly icy, colorless appearance, pair your Princess Cut with a bright white metal like platinum or white gold. Platinum is highly durable and a great choice for protecting the vulnerable corners. If budget is a concern, 14k or 18k white gold offers a similar look at a lower price point.

Secret 7: Compare Princess Cut to Other Square Shapes

Don't confuse the Princess Cut with other square-shaped diamonds. The Cushion Cut has rounded corners and a different faceting pattern, while the Radiant Cut is a square or rectangular shape with cropped corners. The Princess Cut is unique because of its sharp, un-cropped corners, making it a true square cut diamond that demands a secure setting.

The Princess Cut engagement ring remains a powerful symbol of modern romance, offering an exceptional balance of fire, size, and value. By understanding its unique characteristics and following these seven essential secrets, you can confidently choose a stunning, secure, and timeless piece of jewelry that truly represents royalty and enduring love.